Olga
Kondybko
Kondybko
Author of the project
menu
Olga
Kondybko
Kondybko
Project author
menu
YVES
LAURENT
SAINT
Yves Saint Laurent was synonymous
The boy who was bullied at school
sparked a sexual revolution and became
the boldest couturier in the industry.
sparked a sexual revolution and became
the boldest couturier in the industry.
with scandals, innovation, and rebellion
against tradition throughout his
astonishing career.
A natural-born anarchist, the designer
challenged conformists - doing everything
fought hypocrisy, rejected decorum, and
to free women from societal judgment. His
today, and the trends he set in the last
creations still look daring and provocative
century remain relevant to this day.
YVES SAINT LAURENT
Ив Сен-Лоран ассоциировался
The boy who was
bullied at school sparked
a sexual revolution and became the boldest couturier in the industry.
bullied at school sparked
a sexual revolution and became the boldest couturier in the industry.
со скандалами, новаторством
и бунтом против традиций
от начала и до конца своей
ошеломляющей карьеры
Yves Saint Laurent
was synonymous
with scandals,
innovation, and
rebellion against
tradition throughout
his astonishing
career.
A natural-born anarchist,
rejected decorum, and challenged
the designer fought hypocrisy,
conformists - doing everything
judgment. His creations still look
century remain relevant to this day.
to free women from societal
and the trends he set in the last
daring and provocative today,
Fashion shows for
Yves began designing outfits for dolls
and creating vibrant stage sets, staging
and creating vibrant stage sets, staging
He was a frail and sickly child.
Yves Saint Laurent was born in 1936 in the Algerian city of Oran to Lucienne and Charles Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.
However, despite growing up
Lucienne adored being in the spotlight. She was known for her bold choices, like wearing fur coats
in warm weather, painting her lips with the brightest red lipstick, and being an exceptional dancer.
It was Lucienne who introduced Yves
to the world of theater and opera -
a world he never wanted to leave.
It was Lucienne who introduced Yves
to the world of theater and opera -
a world he never wanted to leave.
Doll clothes
He was frequently bullied by his classmates for his dress sketches,
a passion he discovered at the age of eight, inspired by his mother’s vivid outfits.
a passion he discovered at the age of eight, inspired by his mother’s vivid outfits.
сестер
in a positive environment with his two younger sisters, the childhood of the future couturier was far from happy.
His mother, a refined socialite, and his father, an insurance company employee and owner of a cinema chain
in Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria, shaped his early life.
in Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria, shaped his early life.
Yves Saint Laurent was born in 1936 in the Algerian city of Oran to Lucienne and Charles Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. His mother,
a refined socialite, and his father, an insurance company employee and owner of a cinema chain in Morocco,
Tunisia, and Algeria, shaped his early life.
a refined socialite, and his father, an insurance company employee and owner of a cinema chain in Morocco,
Tunisia, and Algeria, shaped his early life.
Lucienne adored being in the spotlight. She
was known for her bold choices, like wearing
fur coats in warm weather, painting her lips
was known for her bold choices, like wearing
fur coats in warm weather, painting her lips
with the brightest red lipstick, and being an exceptional dancer. It was Lucienne who introduced Yves
to the world of theater and opera - a world he never wanted to leave.
to the world of theater and opera - a world he never wanted to leave.
However, despite growing up
in a positive environment with his two younger sisters, the childhood of the future couturier was far from happy.
in a positive environment with his two younger sisters, the childhood of the future couturier was far from happy.
Yves began designing outfits for dolls and creating vibrant stage sets, staging secret performances at night for his younger
sisters, Michelle and Brigitte.
sisters, Michelle and Brigitte.
his older
his older
sisters
sisters
sisters
secret performances
at night for his younger sisters, Michelle
and Brigitte.
at night for his younger sisters, Michelle
and Brigitte.
( 1 )
( 2 )
He was frequently bullied by his classmates for his dress sketches, a passion he discovered at the
age of eight, inspired by his
mother’s vivid outfits.
age of eight, inspired by his
mother’s vivid outfits.
в теплую погоду, красила губы самой ярко-красной помадой и прекрасно танцевала. Именно Люсьенна открыла для сына мир театра и оперы, а он уже
не захотел его покидать.
не захотел его покидать.
Модные показы для старших
сестер
Он регулярно подвергался нападкам
со стороны одноклассников. Причиной травли были рисунки платьев, которыми одаренный ребенок заинтересовался в восьмилетнем возрасте благодаря ярким образам мамы.
со стороны одноклассников. Причиной травли были рисунки платьев, которыми одаренный ребенок заинтересовался в восьмилетнем возрасте благодаря ярким образам мамы.
Дизайнер был очень слабым
и болезненным ребенком
и болезненным ребенком
( 1 )
Впрочем, несмотря на то,
что мальчик и его две младшие сестры росли в позитивной
что мальчик и его две младшие сестры росли в позитивной
Ив стал клеить наряды для кукол и создавать красочные декорации, а потом устраивать тайные представления по ночам для своих младших сестер Мишель и Брижит.
атмосфере,детство будущего кутюрье
нельзя назвать счастливым.
нельзя назвать счастливым.
him give up
At 16, Yves submitted his sketches to a young talent competition, where he won third place, earning his first trip to Paris.
There, he met Michel de Brunhoff,
the editor-in-chief of French Vogue.
the editor-in-chief of French Vogue.
Struck by Saint Laurent’s drawings, Brunhoff promised to support his career. Yves had
to return home, but he had already decided he would definitely come back to Paris.
to return home, but he had already decided he would definitely come back to Paris.
difficulties
However
didn’t make
There, he met Michel de Brunhoff,
the editor-in-chief of French Vogue. Struck
the editor-in-chief of French Vogue. Struck
by Saint Laurent’s drawings, Brunhoff promised to support his career. Yves had to return home, but he had already decided he would definitely come back to Paris.
PARIS
В 16 лет Ив отправил эскизы
на конкурс молодых талантов,
где занял третье место, благодаря
чему он впервые отправился Париж.
на конкурс молодых талантов,
где занял третье место, благодаря
чему он впервые отправился Париж.
Тогда он познакомился с Мишелем
де Брюноффом, главным редактором
де Брюноффом, главным редактором
французского журнала Vogue. Он был поражен рисунками Сен-Лорана, пообещал помочь его карьере. Иву нужно возвращаться домой, но он уже решил, что точно вернется в Париж
at school
on his passion
didn’t make
the difficulties
However
at school
him give up on
his passion
Yves simplified silhouettes, drawing inspiration from what ordinary people wore on the streets. However, the house’s conservative clientele did not approve, especially criticizing his collection Souplesse, Légèreté, Vie, which became his last for Dior.
Empire
of Dior
Upon returning to Paris, Saint Laurent reconnected with Michel de Brunhoff, who introduced him to Christian Dior in 1955. Yves made an excellent impression on the legendary couturier and
secured an internship at his fashion house.
secured an internship at his fashion house.
Some time later,
the founder of the iconic House of Dior
the founder of the iconic House of Dior
unexpectedly passed away from a heart attack at the age of 52. The position of creative director was offered to 21-year-old Saint Laurent.
Upon returning to Paris, Saint Laurent reconnected with Michel de Brunhoff, who introduced him to Christian Dior in 1955.
Yves made an excellent impression on the legendary couturier
and secured an internship
at his fashion house.
and secured an internship
at his fashion house.
Some time later, the founder of the iconic House of Dior unexpectedly passed away from a heart attack
at the age of 52. The position of creative director was offered to 21-year-old Saint Laurent.
Yves simplified silhouettes, drawing
inspiration from what ordinary people
wore on the streets. However, the house’s
conservative clientele did not approve,
inspiration from what ordinary people
wore on the streets. However, the house’s
conservative clientele did not approve,
Ив упрощал силуэты,
вдохновляясь тем, что
обычные люди носят
на улицах. Консервативная клиентура дома это
не принимала особенно
ругали его коллекцию
Souplesse, Légèreté,
Vie, ставшую последней
для Сен-Лорана в Dior
вдохновляясь тем, что
обычные люди носят
на улицах. Консервативная клиентура дома это
не принимала особенно
ругали его коллекцию
Souplesse, Légèreté,
Vie, ставшую последней
для Сен-Лорана в Dior
Empire
of Dior
Вернувшись в Париж, Сен-Лоран напомнил о себе Мишелю де Брюноффу, после чего тот познакомил
его с Кристианом Диором в 1955 году. Он произвел
его с Кристианом Диором в 1955 году. Он произвел
Спустя некоторое время основатель легендарного Дома неожиданно
для всех умер сердечного приступа в возрасте пятидесяти двух лет. Место креативного директора Dior предложили 21-летнему Сен-Лорану.
крайне приятное впечатление
на великого кутюрье и устроился на стажировку в его Дом моды.
на великого кутюрье и устроился на стажировку в его Дом моды.
Ив упрощал силуэты, вдохновляясь тем, что обычные люди носят на улицах
Консервативная клиентура дома это не принимала особенно ругали его коллекцию Souplesse, Légèreté,
Vie, ставшую последней для Сен-Лорана в Dior
Vie, ставшую последней для Сен-Лорана в Dior
especially criticizing his collection Souplesse, Légèreté, Vie, which became his last for Dior.
Dior
Héritage
Héritage
Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent collection, Paris
Fondation Pierre
Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent collection
Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent collection
Dior Héritage collection
Hamish Bowles private collection
Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent collection
drafted into the army
Yves was
In 1960
Unbeknownst to Saint Laurent, the brand’s executives secretly invited Marc Bohan to take over his position.
Upon learning about the new creative director of the House through the newspapers, Yves
suffered a nervous breakdown and was hospitalized on the 20th day of his service. Shortly
suffered a nervous breakdown and was hospitalized on the 20th day of his service. Shortly
after, he was sent to a psychiatric clinic, where
he was subjected to electroshock therapy and psychotropic drugs. The immense stress caused
the designer’s weight to drop to 35 kilograms.
he was subjected to electroshock therapy and psychotropic drugs. The immense stress caused
the designer’s weight to drop to 35 kilograms.
was drafted
In 1960 Yves
Upon learning about the new creative director of the
House through the newspapers, Yves suffered a nervous
House through the newspapers, Yves suffered a nervous
breakdown and was hospitalized on the 20th day of his service. Shortly after, he
was sent to a psychiatric clinic, where
he was subjected to electroshock therapy and psychotropic drugs. The immense stress caused the designer’s weight
to drop to 35 kilograms.
was sent to a psychiatric clinic, where
he was subjected to electroshock therapy and psychotropic drugs. The immense stress caused the designer’s weight
to drop to 35 kilograms.
призывают в армию
Ива
В 1960-м
Unbeknownst to Saint Laurent, the brand’s executives secretly invited Marc Bohan to take over his position.
Узнав про нового креативного директора Дома из газет, Ив попал
в госпиталь с нервным срывом на 20-й день службы. А через некоторое
в госпиталь с нервным срывом на 20-й день службы. А через некоторое
время его отправили в психиатрическую клинику - там Ива принудительно лечат электрошоком
и психотропными препаратами, пока модельер не похудел до 35 кг от еще большего стресса.
и психотропными препаратами, пока модельер не похудел до 35 кг от еще большего стресса.
into the army
Руководители бренда в тайне
от Сен-Лорана пригласили
на его должность Марка Боана.
от Сен-Лорана пригласили
на его должность Марка Боана.
yves Saint Laurent
was fired
the first
boutique
Bergé helped Yves rebuild his life and secured
funding to launch his brand—the first Yves Saint
Laurent boutique opened its doors in 1962.
funding to launch his brand—the first Yves Saint
Laurent boutique opened its doors in 1962.
That same year, Saint Laurent left the hospital
and met the successful entrepreneur Pierre Bergé.
and met the successful entrepreneur Pierre Bergé.
Bergé helped Yves rebuild his life and secured funding to launch his brand - the first Yves Saint
Laurent boutique opened its doors
in 1962.
Laurent boutique opened its doors
in 1962.
That same year, Saint
Laurent left the hospital and met the
successful entrepreneur Pierre Bergé.
Laurent left the hospital and met the
successful entrepreneur Pierre Bergé.
the
Store
first
works, created new color combinations, the first women’s pantsuit, and the legendary Le Smoking.
Soon, the fashion revolutionary introduced his iconic knit
dresses featuring abstract designs inspired by Piet Mondrian’s
dresses featuring abstract designs inspired by Piet Mondrian’s
Soon, the fashion revolutionary introduced his iconic knitdresses featuring abstract designs
inspired by Piet Mondrian’s works, created new color combinations, the first women’s pantsuit, and the legendary Le Smoking.
name caused a sensation - he encouraged Parisian women to wear double - breasted unisex coats and try sheer blouses over bare skin.
The debut
collection under
Saint Laurent’s
collection under
Saint Laurent’s
breasted unisex coats and try sheer blouses over bare skin.
The debut collection under Saint
Laurent’s name caused a sensation - he encouraged Parisian women to wear double -
Laurent’s name caused a sensation - he encouraged Parisian women to wear double -
works, created new color combinations, the first women’s pantsuit, and the legendary Le Smoking.
breasted unisex coats and try sheer blouses over bare skin
The debut collection under Saint
Laurent’s name caused a sensation - he encouraged Parisian women to wear double -
Laurent’s name caused a sensation - he encouraged Parisian women to wear double -
Soon, the fashion revolutionary introduced his iconic knit
dresses featuring abstract designs inspired by Piet Mondrian’s
dresses featuring abstract designs inspired by Piet Mondrian’s
Вскоре главный модный революционер создал свои легендарные трикотажные
платья с абстрактными изображениями по мотивам произведений Пита Мондриана, придумал новые цветовые
произвела настоящий фурор - он предложил парижанкам носить двубортное пальто в стиле унисекс и примерять
прозрачные блузки на голое тело.
прозрачные блузки на голое тело.
Первая коллекция,
выпущенная под
именем Сен-Лорана,
выпущенная под
именем Сен-Лорана,
сочетания, первый
женский брючный
костюм Le Smoking
женский брючный
костюм Le Smoking
произведений Пита Мондриана, придумал новые цветовые сочетания, первый женский брючный костюм
и легендарный
Le Smoking
и легендарный
Le Smoking
в стиле унисекс и примерять прозрачные блузки на голое тело.
Первая коллекция, выпущенная
под именем Сен-Лорана, произвела настоящий фурор - он предложил парижанкам носить двубортное пальто
под именем Сен-Лорана, произвела настоящий фурор - он предложил парижанкам носить двубортное пальто
Вскоре главный модный революционер
создал свои легендарные трикотажные платья
с абстрактными изображениями по мотивам
создал свои легендарные трикотажные платья
с абстрактными изображениями по мотивам
In 1965, he met 22-year-old Catherine Deneuve in his atelier. She had come to choose a dress for her meeting with Queen Elizabeth II. The young actress captivated Yves, and from then on, she became not only a loyal client of the brand but also a personal friend of Saint Laurent.
Yves Saint Laurent’s first muse was model Victoire Doutreleau.
They began working together during his time at Christian Dior.
They began working together during his time at Christian Dior.
Inspiration and attitude
The designer also drew
inspiration from his clients.
inspiration from his clients.
Together, they became
the brightest figures
of Parisian bohemia.
the brightest figures
of Parisian bohemia.
She was eventually succeeded by a duo who would remain
with Yves for life—Loulou de La Falaise and Betty Catroux.
with Yves for life—Loulou de La Falaise and Betty Catroux.
towards women
Inspiration and
attitude towards
Yves Saint Laurent’s first muse was model Victoire Doutreleau.
They began working together during his time at Christian Dior.
They began working together during his time at Christian Dior.
После того как Ив покинул дом,
она ушла вслед за ним и поддерживала его в первые годы работы.
она ушла вслед за ним и поддерживала его в первые годы работы.
When Yves left
the fashion house,
she followed him
and supported during
his early years.
the fashion house,
she followed him
and supported during
his early years.
-Loulou de La Falaise Together, the became the brightest
figures of Parisian bohemia.
figures of Parisian bohemia.
She was eventually succeeded by a duo who would remain
with Yves for life
with Yves for life
choose a dress for her meeting with Queen Elizabeth II. The young actress captivated
Yves, and from then on, she became
not only a loyal client of the brand but
also a personal friend of Saint Laurent.
Yves, and from then on, she became
not only a loyal client of the brand but
also a personal friend of Saint Laurent.
The designer
also drew inspiration
from his clients. In 1965,
he met 22-year-old Catherine Deneuve in his atelier. She had come to
also drew inspiration
from his clients. In 1965,
he met 22-year-old Catherine Deneuve in his atelier. She had come to
women
She had come to choose a dress for her meeting with Queen Elizabeth II. The young actress captivated Yves, and from then on, she became not only a loyal client of the brand but also a personal friend of Saint Laurent.
Yves Saint Laurent’s first muse was model Victoire Doutreleau.
They began working together during his time at Christian Dior.
They began working together during his time at Christian Dior.
Вдохновение
When Yves left the fashion house,
she followed him and supported
him during his early years.
she followed him and supported
him during his early years.
The designer also drew
inspiration from his clients.
In 1965, he met 22-year-old
Catherine Deneuve in his atelier.
inspiration from his clients.
In 1965, he met 22-year-old
Catherine Deneuve in his atelier.
Together, the became the brightest figures
of Parisian bohemia.
of Parisian bohemia.
She was eventually
succeeded by a duo who
would remain with Yves for
life - Loulou de La Falaise.
succeeded by a duo who
would remain with Yves for
life - Loulou de La Falaise.
и отношение к женщинам
banned from sale in the Middle East and Australia.
For the Chinese-American community, the scent was a
provocation and a reminder
of the Opium Wars, while for moralists around the world it was perceived
as an exploitation of drug culture.
of the Opium Wars, while for moralists around the world it was perceived
as an exploitation of drug culture.
There were demands to rename the perfume, and it was eventually
Saint Laurent»
who are addicted to Yves
«Opium is for those
In 1963, Pierre Bergé signed a contract with Charles
of the Ritz to create perfumes under the YSL brand. The
most scandalous and successful of them was Opium.
of the Ritz to create perfumes under the YSL brand. The
most scandalous and successful of them was Opium.
rule-breaking
perfume
banned from sale in the Middle East and Australia.
For the Chinese-American community, the scent
was a provocation and a reminder of the Opium Wars,
was a provocation and a reminder of the Opium Wars,
while for moralists around the world
it was perceived as an exploitation
of drug culture.
it was perceived as an exploitation
of drug culture.
There were demands to rename
the perfume, and it was eventually
the perfume, and it was eventually
Yves Saint Laurent»
who are addicted to
«Opium is for those
In 1963, Pierre Bergé signed a contract
with Charles of the Ritz to create perfumes under the YSL brand. The most scandalous and successful of them was Opium.
with Charles of the Ritz to create perfumes under the YSL brand. The most scandalous and successful of them was Opium.
rule-
perfume
breaking
banned from sale in the
Middle East and Australia.
Middle East and Australia.
For the Chinese-American community, the scent
was a provocation and a reminder
of the Opium Wars, while for moralists
around the world it was perceived
as an exploitation of drug culture.
of the Opium Wars, while for moralists
around the world it was perceived
as an exploitation of drug culture.
There were demands to rename
the perfume, and it was eventually
the perfume, and it was eventually
Saint Laurent»
кто зависим от Yves
«Opium - для тех,
In 1963, Pierre Bergé signed a contract with Charles
of the Ritz to create perfumes under the YSL brand. The
most scandalous and successful of them was Opium.
of the Ritz to create perfumes under the YSL brand. The
most scandalous and successful of them was Opium.
rule-
perfume
breaking
The French friend was the few things
that saved the French couturier
that saved the French couturier
from endless melancholy until his death: "when I am
paralyzed by melancholy, I look at Muzhik."
paralyzed by melancholy, I look at Muzhik."
In total, Yves Saint Laurent had 4 dogs
and they were all named after Lilya Brik.
and they were all named after Lilya Brik.
Muzhik V outlived
his owner.
his owner.
4 french bulldogs
Muzhik I
Muzhik II
Muzhik IV
Muzhik III
The French friend
was the few things
was the few things
that saved the French couturier from
endless melancholy until his death:
"when I am paralyzed by melancholy,
I look at Muzhik."
endless melancholy until his death:
"when I am paralyzed by melancholy,
I look at Muzhik."
In total, Yves Saint Laurent
had 4 dogs and they were
all named after Lilya Brik.
Muzhik V outlived his owner.
had 4 dogs and they were
all named after Lilya Brik.
Muzhik V outlived his owner.
4 french bulldogs
The French friend was the few
things that saved the French couturier
things that saved the French couturier
from endless melancholy until his death: when I am paralyzed
by melancholy, I look at Muzhik."
by melancholy, I look at Muzhik."
In total, Yves Saint Laurent had 4 dogs
and they were all named after Lilya Brik.
and they were all named after Lilya Brik.
Muzhik V outlived
his owner.
his owner.
4 french bulldogs
END OF
STORY
By the middle of the decade, Saint
Laurent decided to find a successor, as he could no longer manage such a heavy workload.
Two weeks later, Saint Laurent held a farewell show,
gathering around two thousand spectators at the Centre Pompidou,
gathering around two thousand spectators at the Centre Pompidou,
including all of Parisian society and his beloved muses.
While remaining the creative director of the House, he
focused solely on haute couture, handing over the management
focused solely on haute couture, handing over the management
of the brand’s other lines to different designers.
By the middle of the decade,
Saint Laurent decided to find a successor,
Saint Laurent decided to find a successor,
Two weeks later, Saint Laurent
held a farewell show, gathering
around two thousand spectators
held a farewell show, gathering
around two thousand spectators
at the Centre Pompidou, including all of Parisian society and his beloved muses.
While remaining the creative director
of the House, he focused solely on haute couture,
of the House, he focused solely on haute couture,
handing over the management
of the brand’s other lines
to different designers.
of the brand’s other lines
to different designers.
as he could no longer manage such a heavy workload.
By the middle of the decade,
Saint Laurent decided to find a successor,
Saint Laurent decided to find a successor,
as he could no longer manage such a heavy workload.
Two weeks later, Saint Laurent
held a farewell show, gathering
around two thousand spectators
held a farewell show, gathering
around two thousand spectators
at the Centre Pompidou, including all of Parisian society and his beloved muses.
While remaining the creative director
of the House, he focused solely on haute
couture, handing over the management
of the House, he focused solely on haute
couture, handing over the management
of the brand’s other lines
to different designers.
to different designers.
Non-commercial project created within
the mentorship of Anna Hodarkovskaya.
the mentorship of Anna Hodarkovskaya.
(Author of the project)
Olga
Olga Kondybko
Kondybko
Photo:
Text:
- https://thenoisetier.com/blog/yves-saint-laurent-the-legend-of-his-time
- https://www.vedomosti.ru/kp/artguide/article/2017/06/30/703777-tri-goda-raboti-iva-sen-lorana-v-dome-christian-dior#/galleries/140737493375200/normal/7
Text:
- https://www.grazia.ru/lifestyle/iv-sen-loran-neveroyatnaya-biografiya-samogo-izvestnogo-buntarya-v-mire-vysokoy-mody/
- https://theblueprint.ru/fashion/history/yves-saint-laurent-encyklopedia
